How to find the right T-Nuts AI guide
Written by an AI model from its trained knowledge.
What the AI looks for in T-Nuts
- Mounting type
- Use pronged (hammer-in) for softwood and plywood with access from the back, screw-in or rivet-style for hardwood or vibration, and threaded inserts where you only have access from the front. Pronged tee nuts can push out under load from the face side, while screw-in types resist spin and pull-out better.
- Thread size
- Match the bolt, for example 1/4-20, 5/16-18, 3/8-16 or M6/M8/M10. Climbing holds, furniture and jigs each use a standard thread, and the nut must match it.
- Barrel length and hole size
- Drill to the barrel diameter specified for the nut, and keep the barrel length shorter than the material thickness. An oversize hole lets the nut spin. Too long a barrel protrudes and blocks the bolt.
- Installation side
- Install so that bolt tension pulls the flange into the wood. Load then bears on the flange instead of pushing the nut out.
- Material
- Use zinc-plated steel for indoor use and stainless for outdoor or wet use. Rusted tee nuts seize the bolt and can't be replaced without damaging the wood.
Brands that matter
- Hillman: Common retail range of four-prong tee nuts in inch sizes.
- E-Z Lok: Threaded inserts for wood, the alternative when you have no access to the back side.
What to avoid
- Pronged tee nuts in hardwood without a correctly sized pilot hole
- Pronged tee nuts where load pulls toward the flange side
- Thin stamped tee nuts for climbing walls or heavy loads
Questions
Are T-nuts the same as T-slot nuts?
No. T-nuts (tee nuts) are set into wood or panels. T-slot nuts slide into extrusion or machine-table slots.